Kami Rita
Kami Rita (कामीरिता शेर्पा) (born 17 January 1970), Thame, Solukhumbu District, Nepal is a Nepali Sherpa guide who, since May 2018, has held the record for most ascents to the summit of Mount Everest. Most recently, he scaled the mountain for a 28th time on 23 May 2023, breaking his own record set on 17 May 2023. His father was among the first professional Sherpa guides after Everest was opened to foreign mountaineers in 1950. His brother Lakpa Rita, also a guide, scaled Everest 17 times.
In 2017, Kami Rita was the third person to reach the summit of Mount Everest 21 times, sharing this record with Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa. The latter two subsequently retired.
On 16 May 2018, at age 48, Kami Rita became the first person in the world to climb Mount Everest 22 times, achieving the record of the most summits on the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak. In April of the year, he told the news media that he planned to scale Everest 25 times before retirement, "not just for myself but for my family, the Sherpa people and for my country, Nepal"; He completed his 28th summit of Everest on 23 May 2023.
Kami Rita currently holds the record for most 8,000 meter summits, with 38 total. In addition to his Everest completions, his totals include Cho-Oyu eight times (2001, 2004, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014 and 2016), Lhotse once (2011) and K2 once (2014).