Jerry Moffatt

Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport.

Jerry Moffatt
Soloing L'Horla (E1 5b), Curbar Edge.
Personal information
NationalityBritish
Born (1963-05-18) 18 May 1963
Leicester, England
EducationSt David's College
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height5 ft 11 in (180 cm)
Weight10 st (140 lb; 64 kg)
SpouseSharon Wallace (m.2003)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First to climb 8a+, 8c+ (sport)
  • First to on-sight 7b+, 7c, 7c+ (sport)
  • One of first to climb 8A+, 8B (bouldering)
First ascents
  • Ulysees' Bow (E6 6b, '83)
  • Master's Wall (E7 6b, '83)
  • Masterclass (8a, '83)
  • Revelations (8a+, '84)
  • Superman (8A+/V12, '88)
  • Evolution (8c+, '95)
Major ascents
  • The Face (8a+, '83)
  • Liquid Ambar (8c+, '90)
  • The Dominator (8B/V13, '93)
Retired1990 (competition);
2002 (general)
Medal record
IFSC Climbing World Cup
1989Lead
Sport Roccia
1989Lead
Updated on 16 January 2022.

As a sport climber, Moffatt was one of the first climbers in history to onsight routes of grade 7b+ (5.12c), 7c (5.12d), and 7c+ (5.13a), and also the first in history to climb routes of grade 8a+ (5.13c), and probably 8c+ (5.14c). As a competition climber, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a boulder climber, Moffatt was one of the first-ever to solve problems of boulder grade 8A+ (V12), and 8B (V13). As a traditional climber, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the Master's Wall (E7 6b) in 1983.

Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of training techniques now considered mainstream in professional climbing. In 1991, Moffatt opened Britain's first indoor climbing centre, "The Foundry" in Sheffield. He has written books on mental preparation for competition climbing.

This article is issued from Wikipedia. The text is licensed under Creative Commons - Attribution - Sharealike. Additional terms may apply for the media files.