Durrance Route
The Durrance Route is a climbing route on Devils Tower in Wyoming, United States. First pioneered by Jack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth in September 1938, it was the second free ascent of Devils Tower, following the first ascent led by Fritz Wiessner in 1937. The Wiessner Route lies a few hundred feet to the right of the Durrance Route and has a comparable difficulty. Today the Durrance Route is the most popular route on Devils Tower. It is considered a more interesting and enjoyable route than the Wiessner Route, due to more variable terrain and better belay stances. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, and other guide books.
Durrance Route | |
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The Durrance Route begins to the right of the two trees and continues along the inset dihedral. | |
Location | Wyoming, United States |
Climbing Area | Devils Tower, Durrance Approach |
Route Type | Traditional climb |
Vertical Gain | 500 feet (150 m) |
Pitches | 6 |
Rating | 5.7 (5a) (almost certainly sandbagged) |
Grade | III |
First ascent | Jack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth (1938) |
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