Durrance Route

The Durrance Route is a climbing route on Devils Tower in Wyoming, United States. First pioneered by Jack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth in September 1938, it was the second free ascent of Devils Tower, following the first ascent led by Fritz Wiessner in 1937. The Wiessner Route lies a few hundred feet to the right of the Durrance Route and has a comparable difficulty. Today the Durrance Route is the most popular route on Devils Tower. It is considered a more interesting and enjoyable route than the Wiessner Route, due to more variable terrain and better belay stances. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, and other guide books.

Durrance Route
The Durrance Route begins to the right of the two trees and continues along the inset dihedral.
LocationWyoming, United States
Climbing AreaDevils Tower, Durrance Approach
Route TypeTraditional climb
Vertical Gain500 feet (150 m)
Pitches6
Rating5.7 (5a) (almost certainly sandbagged)
GradeIII
First ascentJack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth (1938)
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