Beta (climbing)

Beta is a climbing term that designates information about how to ascend a climbing route (e.g. "grab hold of the flake on left while moving the right foot onto the edge on the right"). Traditionally sourced in climbing guidebooks, online databases and apps now provide very detailed climbing beta (e.g. videos of climbers completing the route). The term is attributed to Texan climber Jack Mileski.

When a climber completes a route on their first attempt and without falling, it is called an onsight if they had no beta, or a flash if they had beta (a completion after several failed attempts is called a redpoint). New grade milestones in the on-sighting and flashing of routes are actively followed in the climbing media. The discovery of new beta has led to the re-grading of notable and historic climbing routes.