Action Directe (climb)
Action Directe (French: [aksjɔ̄ diʁɛkt]) is a short 15-metre (49 ft) sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5.14d) grade. Action Directe is considered an important route in rock climbing history, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The plyometric training techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of Action Directe also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.
| Action Directe | |
|---|---|
The route follows five bolts that are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible). | |
Map showing the approximate location of Action Directe | |
| Location | Frankenjura, Germany |
| Coordinates | 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E |
| Climbing Area | Waldkopf crag, Krottenseer Forst |
| Route Type | Sport Climb |
| Vertical Gain | 15-metre (49 ft) |
| Pitches | 1 |
| Rating | 9a (French), XI (UIAA), or 5.14d (YDS) |
| Bolted by | Milan Sykora |
| First free ascent | Wolfgang Güllich, 14 September 1991. |
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