1953 German–Austrian Nanga Parbat expedition

On the 1953 German–Austrian Nanga Parbat expedition Hermann Buhl succeeded in making the first ascent of Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world. He reached the top on 3 July 1953. This was and remains the only time an 8,000-metre summit was first reached by someone climbing alone. The expedition was led by Karl Herrligkoffer who went on to lead a long series of attempts to climb eight-thousanders in the Himalaya and Karakoram.

Buhl set off from the high camp at about 02:00 on 3 July followed by his climbing partner about an hour later and who subsequently returned to the tent. Buhl reached the summit at 19:00 after having been reduced to crawling on hands and knees. When he started to return he had no ice axe or tent, hardly any food, and a crampon missing a strap. He had to stop when it got dark at about 21:00 where the only place to stay the night was a small ledge with only standing room and with a single handhold. At 04:00, after no sleep, he could resume his descent and eventually got back to the tent at 19:00 where he was helped by two companions who had presumed he had died. Herrligkoffer later considered the solo climb was disloyal because the plan had been for the summit to be reached by a group of climbers.